Casting Conventional Reel
Casting Conventional Reel
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 Shimano Torium 30 Fishing Reel TOR30 TOR 30  US $156.95
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 New Shimano TALICA 25 II TAC 25II 2 Speed Fishing Reel US $530.00
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 PENN SLAMMER 760L Live Liner Spinning Reel FREE USA SHIPPING US $127.29
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 Shimano Torium 20 Conventional Saltwater Fishing Reel Brand New In Box TOR 20 US $160.00
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 Shimano Calcutta 400S Conventional Casting Reel No Reserve US $72.00
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 BOX LOT OF 6 REELS GARCIA MITCHELL SHAKESPEAREAIREX SHIMANOFIX OR FOR PARTS US $19.99
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 OKUMA MAGDA PRO MA20DX CONVENTIONAL LEVELWIND REEL WITH DEPTH COUNTER NEW R H US $20.01
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 PENN SLAMMER 560L Live Liner Spinning Reel FREE USA SHIP US $111.14
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 PENN SENATOR 113H 2 CONVENTIONAL SALTWATER REEL PENN SENATOR 113H 2 R H REEL US $46.00
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 Shimano Tekota 800 Levelwind Reel TEK800 TEK 800 US $159.95
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 Penn 114H2LW Special Senator 114H 2LW 6 0 Conventional Fishing Reel 1187312 US $152.99
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 Shimano Torium TOR 20 Conventional Jig Reel $199 MSRP FREE Shipping NEW US $153.95
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 NEW DAIWA SALTIGA LEVER DRAG 2SP REEL SALD50 2SPD US $429.99
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 New Shimano Calcutta 700 Conventional Casting Reel Made in Japan US $210.00
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 New Abu Garcia 7000iC3 CT Mag HS No Level Wind US $150.00
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 Silver Tiburon Engineering N454 Topless Reel Frame 546 454 Newell Brand NEW US $86.00
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 New Shimano Trinidad 30DC 30 DC Casting Reel For Saltwater US $490.00
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 PENN 500 JIGMASTER WITH EXTRA ALUMINUM SPOOL AND NEW LINE LOOK US $2.75
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 NEW SHIMANO TRINIDAD 30A CONVENTIONAL ROUND REEL TN 30A US $499.99
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 BEST synthetic oil for Penn saltwater reels READ THIS US $6.99
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 Shimano Reel Cover ANRC850 Large Trinidad Torium Tekota Tiagra US $10.73
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 Shimano Tekota 300LC Levelwind Reel TEK300LC US $143.95
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 Shimano Torium 16 Conventional Saltwater Reel US $89.99
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 New Shimano Trinidad 10 A Saltwater Reel TN 10A US $380.00
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 SHIMANO TRINIDAD 30A CONVENTIONAL REEL FREE OPASS ALUMINUM POWER KNOB US $472.00
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 Daiwa Saltiga Lever Drag conventional SALD35 2SPD 35 Reel LD35 2 speed l NIB NEW US $439.45
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 NEW 2012 Penn FATHOM STAR DRAG 15 FTH15 Conventional Fishing Reel 1238443 US $165.99
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 SHIMANO TYRNOS 12 CONVENTIONAL SINGLE SPEED REEL NEW IN BOX US $245.99
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 NEWELL P533 46F CONVENTIONAL SALTWATER REEL BRAND NEW US $259.99
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 Shimano Torium 16 Fishing Reel TOR16 TOR 16 US $142.95
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 Shimano Tekota 700LC Levelwind Reel Line Counter Reel US $191.95
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 New Shimano Tyrnos 30 II 2 Speed TLD Big Game Reel US $299.99
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 Penn Squall 12 Saltwater Conventional Fishing Reel NEW US $149.95
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 Penn 113H2LW Special Senator HT 100 Drag Conventional Fishing Reel 1153841 US $129.99
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 Penn FATHOM STAR DRAG FTH25N Conventional Fishing Reel 1238444 US $179.99
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 SUPERIOR synthetic oil for Shimano reels LQQK HERE US $6.99
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 PENN CONVENTIONAL REEL Neoprene Cover SIZE EXTRA LARGE XLGRC FREE SHIP US $21.84
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 Daiwa Saltist Black Gold STTBG35H High Speed Conventional Reel FREE SHIPPING US $181.99
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 VERY BEST synthetic oil for Avet reels PLEASE READ US $6.99
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 Okuma Cedros CSD10S Star Drag Conventional Reel US $279.95
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 Shimano Tekota 300 Levelwind Reel TEK300 TEK 300 US $137.95
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 NEW SALTIGA LEVER DRAG HYPER SPEED REEL 20HS SALD20HS US $359.99
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 DAIWA STTBG50H SALTIST BLACK GOLD CONVENTIONAL REEL US $209.99
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 Shimano TRX500PG TranX SHM 2319 Power Gear Baitcasting US $201.07
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 Daiwa Saltiga Lever Drag SALD40 2SPD 40 Reel NIB BEST $ US $439.45
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 Shimano Tekota 700 Levelwind Reel TEK700 TEK 700 New US $159.95
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 THE BEST synthetic oil for Shimano reels READ HERE US $6.99
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 Shimano Tekota 800LC Levelwind Reel Line Counter Reel US $198.95
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 Brand New Shimano Tyrnos 8 Lever Drag Conventional Reel US $169.99
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 Daiwa Sealine 50H Casting Jigging Trolling Reel NEW US $40.00
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 Shimano Torium 20 Fishing Reel TOR20 TOR 20 US $150.95
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 NEWELL P533 55F CONVENTIONAL SALTWATER REEL BRAND NEW US $203.55
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 Black Tiburon T4W Reel Frame Penn 113HLW Senator 4 0 Topless NEW US $89.00
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 PENN 112H SPECIAL SENATOR 3 0 HIGH SPEED SALTWATER FISHING REEL US $24.99
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 BEST 100 synthetic oil for vintage Penn fishing reels US $6.99
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 FIN NOR Marquesa 20II two speed lever drag conventional reel US $311.11
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 Tica CAIMAN STRIPER LE SERIES LE201 Lefty NEW Reel Collector series US $134.99
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 New Shimano TALICA 10 II TAC 10II 2 Speed Fishing Reel US $420.00
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 BEST oil for Accurate or any saltwater reel READ THIS US $6.99
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 Okuma Solterra Levelwind Conventional Reel SLR 20L US $108.00
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 Avet JX60MCS Lever Drag Conventional Reel SILVER US $244.00
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 Yoshikawa Saltwater Conventional Jigging Reel Lever Drag 6BB 61 22Lbs 15W RTJ33 US $218.80
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 AMBASSADEUR BG7000i HSN Big Game Reel US $159.95
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 BEST synthetic oil for Abu Garcia reels LQQK HERE US $6.99
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 FIN NOR ST 30 conventional star drag REEL US $124.44
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 Penn Squall 12 Conventional reel Brand new SQL12 Magnetic cast control US $134.99
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 WHOLESALE LOT 6 SHAKESPEAR TIDEWATER CONVENTIONAL BAITCASTING REEL TW30LAC US $291.00
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 LOT OF 2 SHAKESPEAR TIDEWATER CONVENTIONAL BAITCASTING REEL TW30LAC US $103.00
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 SHAKESPEAR TIDEWATER CONVENTIONAL BAITCASTING FISHING REEL TW30LAC US $54.50
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 New in box Avet Fishing Reel Factory Blem model MXJ 6 4 MC CAST TWO SPEED 38 US $275.00
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 New in box Avet Fishing Reel Factory Blem model MXL 6 4 MC CAST TWO SPEED 35 US $280.00
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 New in box Avet Fishing Reel Factory Blem model MXL 6 4 MC CAST TWO SPEED 34 US $280.00
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 New in box Avet Fishing Reel Factory Blem model MXL 58 MC CAST single speed US $185.00
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 Shimano Talica II 16 Conventional Reel TAC16II Lever Drag 2 Speed US $499.99
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 PENN SQUALL SQL12 Fishing Star Drag Reel FREE SHIP US $132.99
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 Shimano New Tekota Line Counter Reel 421 TEK700LC US $199.99
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 NEW DAIWA SALTIST model SALTIST STT50 SUPER TORQUE Conventional Saltwater Reel US $199.99
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 New Shimano Trinidad 30 A Saltwater Reel TN 30A US $410.00
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 Penn 115L2 Senator HT 100 High Strength Conventional Fishing Reel 9 0 1199904 US $147.99
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 Penn 114L2 Senator HT 100 Drag Conventional 114L 2 Fishing Reel 6 0 1187315 US $129.99
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Long Distance Spin Casting
You read up on it. You become sure you can do it. After all, hitting a good tee shot seems a lot harder than casting a spinning rod.
So you march to the lake with visions of hooking and landing a faraway lunker. You set up your fishing rod and step up to the bank and cast. Your lure, however, flies off to the right and not very far. You cast again and again. The results don't change.
Golf didn't seem this frustrating! So you think all you need is some practice.
But after hours and hours of it, you're still in the same, going-nowhere casting boat, so to speak.
How discouraging! Even makes you think about giving up fishing.
Yes, I know!
But instead of giving up, I wondered, what if there's a lot more to casting a spinning rod than what I read? What if I experiment with using other techniques, the techniques of throwing a ball and of casting a fly rod?
So I began a year of casting trials and errors. Lots of errors!
Then finally it happened: consistently, I felt the beauty of loading the rod, of watching the lure streak over the water, and land right where I wanted it to.
Here's how I got there.
THE STANCE. I want to use one that helps me shift my weight so I get as much leverage as possible, and helps me increase the length of my casting stroke, and therefore the bend, or load, in the rod. I'm right handed, so I put my left foot forward and point it straight ahead. I turn my right foot outward about thirty degrees. My feet are shoulder-width apart. The front of my right foot is in-line with the front of my left heel. (If my right foot is too far back or too far pointed outward, I'll lock my hips and not be able to fully rotate by body and shift all my weight.) I square my hips and shoulders to the target, slightly bend my knees and shift my weight to the ball of my front foot. My right heel is off the ground. I flex my thumb and put it on the top of the rod handle. I hold the rod loosely and point it anywhere from nine o'clock to ten-thirty. My elbow is even with the front of my waist. The lure hangs down about a foot.
THE POWER GRIP. I start with two fingers in front of the reel stem and two behind. I pick up the line with my right index finger, and then move my hand back so only my line finger is in front of the stem. Next, I pull the line up and back, then press my fingertip against the stem, but not against the line. (I like to feel the weight of the lure to cast it accurately.)
I hold the line this way for the same reason a good fly caster doesn't let slack form in his fly line: to keep constant tension on the line so as soon as I start the cast the lure pulls on the rod, and therefore fully loads the rod. Holding the line the conventional way made it impossible for me to keep enough tension on the line. Even worse, I found it very difficult to keep my index finger from prematurely straightening and releasing the line.
No wonder my casts were short, and high and off to the side.
(Until I got my timing down, I used a golf glove or a Band-Aid to prevent the line from cutting into my finger.)
MOVING THE ROD. I initially assumed the faster I moved the rod the farther I'd cast. For two reasons I was wrong. First: a pitcher achieves maximum power and velocity only when his arm moves in sync with his body rotation. If his arm gets ahead of his body he becomes an "arm thrower."
No wonder major league pitchers seem to throw as if not using all their might! Maximum arm speed is reached only at the release.
Fly casters will tell you the same thing, and also for the second reason: to fully load the rod it must accelerate. If it moves too quickly the speed of the line, or in our case the lure, moves almost as fast as the rod, and therefore doesn't fully pull on and load the rod. The cast dies well short of its target.
(A stiffer rod loads better with a shorter, faster stroke, but the stroke must still be accelerated.)
THE CAST AND POWER SNAP. I begin the cast by opening the bail, raising my elbow and slowly accelerating the rod up and back. As I move the rod, I rotate my shoulders backwards and shift my weight to the heel of my back foot. When the rod points to about one o'clock I break my wrist back. My elbow continues to point forward. (If it points out to the side, I'll not be able finish the cast without lowering the rod tip from the target line, and prematurely unloading the rod.) When my forearm points to about one o'clock, and my upper arm points parallel to the water or slightly upward, and the rod points parallel to the water or slightly downward, I immediately and quickly start my forward cast.
(During the back cast I never move the rod too fast. If I do, the lure will bounce at the end of the cast and prematurely unload the rod.)
My eyes are focused on an imaginary target in the sky, about forty-five degrees above the water, but higher if the wind is from behind or lower if it is from in front.
Leading with my elbow, rotating my shoulders and shoulders I accelerate the rod and soon move the tip in a straight line that points to the target and move the rod butt at a right angle to the line. (Fully rotating our hips and shoulders allows us to increase the length we can move—and therefore load—the rod at this angle.)
When my arm is about three-quarters extended, I increase my grip pressure and my acceleration and shift all my weight to my front foot. I reach maximum arm speed then, as if I'm hammering a nail, I snap my wrist without lowering the rod tip from the target line. Abruptly, I stop the rod.
My front leg is now straight. My right shoulder is all the way forward. My arm is fully extended. My weight is on the ball and toes of my front foot. I hold the rod still so I don't lower the tip and pull the line down.
AS I DESCRIBE ALL THIS. Learning to cast a spinning rod seems a lot easier than it was. Well maybe if, like most skilled golfers, I had learned the right techniques from the start it would've been.
But better late than never.
About the Author
I'm a native New Yorker. My writing has appeared in many publications, including The Flyfisher, Flyfishing & Tying Journal and Fishing And Hunting News. I'm also the author of the historical novel, The Fly Caster Who Tried To Make Peace With the World.
Much of my writing is about the techniques of spin and fly casting and about the spirituality/recovery of fly fishing. I often fish the streams of Westchester, the piers of New York City and the lakes of Central Park.